overland

Lost Coast 8/15-8/17

UPDATE: Updates for all days have been added.

Day 1 - Monday: Tracy, CA to Usal Beach Campground
My daughter, Kylie, and I left Tracy around 10:30am headed for Leggett. Traffic was not much of an issue due to it being a weekday.

The gas station in Leggett had an old non-digital gas pump and one employee/owner that pumped our gas for us. We asked about trail condition and he said it was pretty rutted up due to the number of vehicles driving the road. We were grateful for the "bathroom" which would be the last flush toilet we'd see for about 18 hours. From Leggett we drove a little over 14 miles down Hwy 1 to the start of Usal Road. The trail almost immediately treated us to some awesome views of the coast, but none better than the turnout just above Usal Beach! Wow!!

We drove around briefly by the beach and found a perfect campground in the alder tree groves protected somewhat from the wind (as a number of members here have noted). We set up camp, had dinner, and discussed our plans for the next day before calling it a night.

Note 1: As you are coming into Usal Beach, there is a dispersed camping area above the beach just before the bridge

Note 2: The pit toilet as Usal campground was disgusting because campers choose to throw their garbage in the bathroom rather than pack it out with them. Luckily we had a Cleanwaste portable toilet, privy, and bags.

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Day 2 - Tuesday: Usal Beach Campground to A.W. Way Campground
This was to be our longest trail day, clocking in at 70 miles of driving...80% off-road. We left camp around 9am and headed toward Shelter Cove via Four Corners on the narrow, winding, hilly trails of Usal Road. Some sections were typical gravel or dirt trails and some were very rutted. About 3/4 of the way to Four Corners we met up with an oncoming Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. We asked about road conditions and he said there were spots that were "quite lumpy" the direction we were going. Kylie and I repeated "quite lumpy" every time we hit one of those spots LOL.

We arrived at Shelter Cove around 1pm in need of bathrooms and lunch. At the bottom of the hill we found a small deli where we could get sandwiches and use the bathroom. Then we drove out to the old lighthouse (relocated from Cape Mendocino) and had some lunch before exploring the beach and tide pools.

On our way out of Shelter Cove an hour later we stopped by the General Store and gas station for a top off and to look for souvenirs. We also noted that the gas at Shelter Cove was priced at $4.20/gal (LOL - If you know you know).

We left Shelter Cove headed North and made a quick stop by Tolkan Campground just to check it out. If we had another day to spare we would have camped here. From Tolkan campground we headed to Saddle Mountain Road to get an epic view of the coast. Although there was fog over the coast and smokey haze inland, it was still worth the stop for photos and videos.

From Saddle Mountain Road we headed toward A.W. Way campground and arrived just before 6pm. A.W. Way campground wasn't crowded, but there were quite a few people camped along the river. So we just set up in the middle of the campground a bit closer to the showers (bring your quarters) and flushing restrooms. We took showers, ate some dinner, and sat around the fire discussing our busy plans for day 3. Before bed, we stood out in the meadow and gazed at the milky way and saw multiple shooting stars.

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Day 3 - Wednesday A.W. Way to Punta Gorda Lighthouse, Humboldt Redwoods State Park, and home
We left camp around 9am and headed toward Mattole Beach. Just before the beach we veered off-road on to Prosper Ridge Road and began our ascent into the hills where we were treated to an impressive but foggy view of Mattole Beach and the Mattole River. Next we drove out Windy Point Road and parked so we could hike out to the Punta Gorda lighthouse. About half a mile into the hike, we reached Fourmile Creek. We hopped across rocks on the hike out and walked across a log on the return trip to stay dry. Unfortunately the lighthouse was being renovated so we couldn't go inside. On the walk back we spotted the elephant seals. Note: there are no restrooms along Prosper Ridge Road, Windy Point Road, or at the lighthouse so plan accordingly if you go.

We left the Mattole Beach area around 11:30am and headed to Honeydew to stop at the general store for restrooms and to eat some lunch. On our way to Humboldt Redwoods state park we saw a ring tale cat cross the road and later confirmed with the visitor center that they are local to the area. We stopped quickly by Albee campground just to see what it looked like and agreed we'd stay there on a future trip. We stopped to see the "Giant Tree" but the boardwalk was closed for renovation so we took a few pictures and headed on to the visitor's center. We definitely want to spend some more time in this gem of a state park.

After the visitor's center we headed down Avenue of the Giants, and stopped briefly at the Legend of Bigfoot Store. They said the last sighting was 18 months ago by a CHP officer just off of Hwy 101. From there we headed home.

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Key notes:
  • Leggett gas station - has gas for a final top off if you are traveling South-to-North
  • Pit toilet at Usal campground - disgusting! People really need to learn to pack-out their shtuff.
  • Last 1/4-1/3 of Usal road prior to 4 corners was a bit lumpy. No issues, just be prepared for all the ruts, etc. Could have done most of the trail in 2 wheel drive but used 4H most of the the time. 4L was not needed.
  • Took us about 4 hours to get from Usal Beach to Shelter Cove.
  • Shelter Cove general store has gas if needed for a top-off. It's $4.20 per gallon (LOL).
  • Tolkan Campground looks great, though we didn't stay there.
  • Took about 2-3 hours from Shelter Cove to A.W. Way campground.
  • A.W. Way campground was nice - paid showers were a plus. If Tolkan had showers that would have been 100%.
  • Punta Gorda lighthouse is having some sort of repair/renovation so there's scaffolding and you can't go inside.
  • General Store in Honeydew has gas for about $6/gal if needed
  • Humboldt Redwoods State Park is a hidden gem!
 
Last edited:

ksuttle

Trail Grom
Joined
Jul 18, 2022
Messages
10
Location
Northern California
Updates for all days have been added above. It was a truly great trip even thought we went through fast. Thanks to OTG for sharing the routes we had not been on before and for the community answers to some of my questions.

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