overland

Mojave Road - April 2021

Day 1

Back in early April, my wife LeeAnn and I headed south on a Saturday morning to Bullhead City, AZ. Our plan, to run the Mojave Road from east to west. We spent Saturday night visiting with LeeAnn’s uncle then hit the road early Sunday morning. We stopped to top off the tank and crossed the Colorado River at the Avi Casino and made our way to the eastern terminus of the Road. We backed up with the tailgate to the river and headed west. The Mojave Road was originally a Native American trading route later used by Spanish explorers and then Americans as a mail and wagon route.

First stop, Fort Paiute. Fort Paiute is a bit of a side trip off the Road but worth it. It’s pretty rocky, nothing technical, just bone jarring. There are low walls remaining at this outpost that delineate the kitchen, sleeping quarters with fireplace, and a corral for horses. There’s a nice creek and lots of greenery along its banks. Well worth the detour off the Road.

After getting back on the Road, we took the detour over the Paiute Range. This is the only part that I would consider even remotely technical, unless you consider soft sand in the bottom of washes and sand dunes technical. The road up through the pass was partially washed out and there were lots of big whoops. We watched some dirt bikes go through ahead of us and the whoops were big enough that we found one of their water bladders lying in the dirt, the straps had broken and it fell off. We were actually able to return the water bladder to its rightful owner at the old school bus location (the bus is gone by the way). A little further on, we stopped by the Penny Can Tree for lunch. Someone hung a soup can from a Joshua Tree and you’re supposed to leave a penny to contribute to the Mojave Road Maintenance Program. I was feeling like a high-roller so I left a nickel. Always willing to do my part. At some point, the Joshua Tree next to the Penny Can Tree started sprouting a bunch of plastic dinosaurs and reptiles. Something that I hadn’t heard of previously. After lunch it was on to our first night’s camp spot.

I wanted to start the road on a Sunday or Monday because I’d heard great things about a campsite off the road and up Caruthers Canyon and my hope was that it would not be occupied. While there are some developed campsites in the Mojave National Preserve (like Mid Hills and Hole in the Wall) there are numerous dispersed primitive sites throughout the route. You don’t need to create a new site, there are plenty previously used sites available. My plan worked, as we were driving up the canyon two trucks were exiting and as we reached the head of the canyon, the preferred campsite was empty and we had it all to ourselves. Hooray!

We set up our first night’s camp. This place is beautiful. It’s well over 5,000 feet in elevation so you get a respite from the desert heat. I’ve included a picture from our campsite. They call it Camp Phallus, I wonder why? The campsite is pretty popular, and there is a nice picnic table and kitchen area built from onyx and concrete, all the comforts of home. It’s a number of miles off the Road in an already remote area, so you have to have it in mind as a destination. I mention this because as we were relaxing, we heard some motorcycles coming up the canyon. A little later we heard voices coming up toward our camp. Three young men on an adventure, riding enduros from the Mexican Border to Lake Tahoe. Two were riding and the third was driving the “chase truck”, a ZR2 same as me. Small world. LeeAnn and I live in the Tri-Valley area East of the SF Bay area and as we were talking, we learned that all three worked at Sandia Labs and lived in Livermore, one town over from us. Smaller world.2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg
 

Pphylo

Trail Grom
Joined
Jun 19, 2021
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Day 2

We took off Monday morning, back to the Road, and headed west again. This was a big day off the Road. We headed down to Hole in the Wall so that I could take LeeAnn on the Ring Trail. I’d done this hike many years ago with a bunch of Cub Scouts, but my wife had never been. The hike starts from the Ranger Station. It’s not a long hike but it takes you around the back side of a large rock outcropping and up through a slot where pins and rings have been strategically placed to allow you to climb up the slot. It’s comes out at the picnic area back near the Ranger Station. After that, it was back to the Road and west again to Cima Road. We aired up headed south to Kelso Depot to find a lunch spot and take a peek at the Kelso Dunes. After lunch, we turned back north on Cima Road and took the pavement all the way out to Hwy 15 to top off the tank. On the way there we checked out the Mojave Cross World War I Memorial and then the Evening Star Mine on the way back to the Road. The Mojave Road itself is just short of 140 miles all the way through. With all of our side trips and, ahem, a few missed turns, we put 310 miles on the truck. We turned back onto the Road, aired down again, and headed west toward the Mailbox.

It isn’t really a mailbox, but there is a notebook to register your name and date. There is a box that’s full of a plethora of items to look through. It’s a take one leave one deal. When we were there, there was a unicorn mask, a can Coors Light, and many other items. Make sure to checkout the area behind the Mailbox. There are numerous meticulously curated “gardens” to view. There’s the Frog Garden, Jeep Rock, the Gnome Garden… Looks like someone was trying to get a Mermaid Garden started too. After the Mailbox, it was on to our next camp spot near Seventeenmile Point.9.jpg10.jpg11.jpg12.jpg13.jpg14.jpg15.jpg
 

Pphylo

Trail Grom
Joined
Jun 19, 2021
Messages
11
Day 3

Day three was up early and on the road. We had intended on camping a third night at the exit of Afton Canyon, but we’d heard that high winds were forecast. We drove through Soda Lake to the Travelers Monument. Soda Lake is a dry lakebed miles across. I don’t recall it raining at all in the last year so it was flat, dry, and fast travel. This is near the Zzyzx Desert Study Center. If you’ve ever driven 15 between Baker and Barstow, you’ve probably seen Zzyzx Road. The area is currently closed for study. The Travelers Monument is at the west end of Soda Lake. It is basically a large pile of rocks. You bring your own rock to add to the pile. Some people paint their rock and put their name, date, etc. We just left a nice piece of onyx that we picked up during a trip to Baja Sur. If you climb to the top of the rock pile, you’ll find a plaque memorializing an important date in history. No, I’m not gonna tell you what it says, tradition dictates that you’ll have to check it out for yourself.

From the Travelers Monument it’s a long high-speed slog through sand dunes until you come out into a wash that leads to Afton Canyon. The canyon is well worth the trip with lots of colors and interesting formations. You’re essentially driving next to and sometimes across the Mojave River (it should be called the Mojave Trickle, at least in April of this year). Make sure you keep your eyes peeled for wildlife, we encountered some Bighorn Sheep coming to the river to water. At the west end of the canyon you are paralleling some railroad tracks. To continue on you need to make a water crossing under a train trestle. For some reason, Chevy decided it was a good idea to save $1.75 and shorten the rear axle breather tube on the 2020 ZR2 and place it right on top of the rear dif. I hadn’t gotten around to extending the breather yet and I didn’t know the depth of the water. It looked like it would cover the axle so I didn’t want to chance it.

We backtracked through the canyon and out to 15. I didn’t want to air back up to drive on the highway so we crossed 15 to a pipeline service road that LeeAnn pointed out on the topo map. After a fairly nerve racking trip down through soft sand and a reaaaaallly steep climb up and over a mountain, we crossed back over to Afton Campground, stopped for lunch, and continued through the rest of the Road. We came out just a bit east of Yermo, aired up and headed straight home to the Bay Area. It was a pretty long last day but, as I mentioned earlier, the winds were coming. While we were airing up a little after noon, it was blowing 45 mph sustained and camping another night in a tent would not have been fun. This was a great trip and our first multi-night with the new truck. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.

There is a great reference book, Mojave Road Guide – An Adventure Through Time, by Dennis Casebier that we highly recommend. Dennis sadly passed away earlier this year. Also, the Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Association has a great website at mdhca.org that has a ton of history and valuable information.

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OTG Ben

OTG Principal Explorer
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Apr 24, 2021
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Rad post @Pphylo !! I hope we see more like these in the future. Definitely earned your Annual Sub to all of our USA routes (y)
 
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